We have all done it. Want a good restaurant, want to enjoy a local speciality, want a good location and check out the guide book But in reality many restaurants, especially those open since the late 19 c, are trading on their past glory which is now faded somewhat.
This was my curate’s egg experience at Volver in Ushuaia which specialised in centolla (king crab). Great crab starter, excellent wine, overcooked steak (I didnt have to pay for it) and slow service. I was not the only one suffering there were lots of international murmurings in the restaurant that night. However, it was a wonderful location and a beautiful evening, not recorded on camera as my cell phone battery had become drained. Anyway the romantic in me just enjoyed the moment. I was sitting facing the historic Beagle Channel, named after the survey ship HMS Beagle on which Charles Darwin travelled in 1833, and the sun was shining on the Chilean mountains, 4 miles across the water. The musak was playing ‘Killing me softly’ and the restaurant, which was opened in 1896, had walls covered with old newspapers.
I decline a dessert or coffee and head out into a 10pm sunset.
Time for a nightcap so I head to the Dublin bar for a coffee and a Jamesons. It is rammed but I squeeze onto a stool at the bar. As I add a little water to my Jamesons two guys across the bar shout “No” in unison with their thumbs down and laugh. I move around to join them and explain that if they had my heartburn they would also add warer. Pierre and Vincent were French extreme backpackers (sleeping in a tent and hitchhiking) who were both funny and charming despite the BO. Pierre an ex banker had been on the go 11 months and intended to carry on for another two years or for five if Marine le Pent wins the French presidential election.
A couple a whiskies, some French banter and some fun with the smashed Aerolineas aircrew, celebrating one of their own birthday, made for a great evening.