Back in Lima

It was a 4.5 hour flight to Lima and I was lucky for a change. Off the aircraft at 10.35pm and quickly through immigration, bags arrived immediately and driver waiting. After breakneck drive which last time took two hours arrived at hotel at 11.30  !

Even luckier was my choice of hotel, part of a relatively new Peruvian group called Terra Viva. Super clean, friendly staff, biggest bed I have ever had (not just on this trip…ever) and as I discovered the next morning a fantastic breakfast taken on 8th floor terrace.


Decided to venture downtown to the historic centre. The buildings were striking with obvious Spanish and Moorish influences.

But away from the main squares, where one could breath a bit, it was run down, humid, stifling hot and smelly in places.

After walking through the old town I arrived at the old railway terminus building seen at the end of the road past the Andean lady selling her wares. imageThis marks the end of the main town but wander beyond the station and you can see the hillside settlement, I guess like the favellas in Rio.


It seems so distant from the relative comforts of Miraflores where I am staying. After a beer and a cigar and some photoshots I decided to head back.

I had already been stung by the taxi on the way down, there are no meters so you have to negotiate before you set off. Impossible without Spanish or the knowledge of roughly  what the fare should be. Decided to give Uber a go. Worked a treat, pre agreed price paid via PayPal, good quality car and aircon for one third of the first trip!!

Back to my haven, write blog, and nap before setting off on my evening treat.

Pisco sour virgin

Everything I have read about pisco sours told me NO! Egg white is for making meringues not adding to a cocktail. Same goes for a prairie oyster…WHY?

Anyway for an early, light and safe supper…you know by now that I like to eat regularly…I decided to try the highly recommended Swiss cafe, La Tiendacita Blanca which is only a block away from my guest house.

The lightest thing I could find on the menu was the smoked salmon on toast with lime, capers and onion. Delicious. Given my recent fight with a bacon sandwich, I passed on what was described as “three little pigs” ( English ham, Serrano ham, smoked tenderloin, Edam cheese, organic lettuce [that will help], and mayonnaise).

imageAnyway one of the menu options cane with a pisco sour and as I have always argued that you must at least try, I felt my arm being twisted behind my back. Oh, go on then make that a pisco sour. So, I am a PS virgin no more.

Interestingly, I quite liked it. Possibly, because the hit of alcohol and lime juice would mask an egg yolk let alone the white. It is not dissimilar from a strong margarita or even a caipirinha..two of my favourites… so I may continue with Peru’s national drink. Two or three at altitude should be fun!!

Location, Location, Location

As I reached the coastal district of Barranco after a 45 minute walk from Miraflores I chanced upon what Kirsty and Phil would call a doer upper.

The key to these types of properties is the location and then I noticed that the Spanish Embassy was on the next plot. Even better, the Relais et Chateau’s Arts Boutique Hotel B could be found further down the street.

imageAround the corner I did come across a potential issue, Damn big bugs in the area!