It was Saturday night and I had managed a nap after my return drive to Cafayate so staying in was not an option.
Apparently all the bars, clubs and penas are situated on Calle Balcarce which runs down from the train staion, which is the departure point for la tren a las nunes (train to the clouds). This train was an option I had considered but ruled out based on timing.
I walked to Balcarce in about 30 minutes so was gasping for a beer. It was quite quiet as the penas shows had not started and the nightclubs were at 10pm totally empty. I found an outside table ar the recommended Cafe del Tiempo and ordered a local beer. A litre bottle of Quilmes arrived, so I settled back to watch the world go by.
I lit up a hand rolled El Rey del Munndo demi tasse cigar from a box I had bought at the incredible La Couronne in Nyon, near Geneva. It was the perfect end to the day.
Now, getting peckish, I tried my first empenados, little mini pasties filled with spicy meat …delicious.
The litre of Quilmes had been demolished so I followed with what turned out to be a very strong caipirinha. Then another caipirinha and cigar. It was definitely a taxi back for a well earned night’s sleep.
Grey Trails 