Back in the haven of another Tierra Viva hotel, the same as I stayed on the last visit to Lima, I collect my large suitcase which they have held for me and start to sort myself out. Suddenly I realise that I no longer have the wish to lie down and do nothing so I am determined that tonight I will enjoy myself.
First stop, the Belmond Miraflores Park Hotel which reputedly had a rooftop bar where I could enjoy a cocktail, the sunset, and a cigar (I hadn’t packed them for the high altitude trip). Bar no longer there.
Not a good start so I wander over to Larcoma a shopping, eating, and drinking complex built into the side of the rock face overlooking the Pacific Ocean. I find a bar, order a cocktail and an appetiser, six pieces of a beef mixtures wrapped in spring roll pastry served with a dipping sauce. Delicious and that will do for dinner.
The sunset is spectacular, first the full hazy sun on the distant horizon and then the pinky orange after glow in the night sky.
Even though outdoors it was a non smoking area so on the way back to the hotel I passed a small bar with tables outside. A caipirinha and an H.Upmann half corona later and I feel ready for the night ahead. Back to the hotel to change.
I was in the mood for some live music but much is closed on a Tuesdays, especially the penas, where one can watch local music. However, there are two jazz/blues clubs that are open in my area. i head off to Crocodilo Verde at 8.30pm whose website tells me is a block away from Calle Pizza (this is not a made up name). I have read about this pedestrianised road called Pizza Alley in the guide book, a place full af bars, restaurants and night clubs and always thought that this was a made up name for the tourists. Another thing it is known for is prostitutes. Even with the police presence I am nodded, smiled, winked or pssst at several times as I pass through and I know it is not because of my good looks.
Crocodilo Verde is discovered, I pay the fee, and told I can sit anywhere. The place is packed so I sit opposite a couple of local lesbians. It is a great intimate venue and on stage is a female comedian who I assume to be the warm up before the music. I order a beer and a plate of breaded langoustinos. Then the female introduces a male comic who has the place in uproar. It’s all in Spanish so I haven’t a clue but at one stage he obviously does an observational mickey take on different nationaltities. I pick out Italian and Portuguese and then he moves to the German and does the actions and mannerisms exactly as we would in the UK. I ask my waiter what time the music starts. He says no music it is stand up comedy night. I pay and leave..whata mistaka to maka.
I walk back towards my hotel and make my way to the Jazz Zone. When I arrive at 10pm it is almost empty and it looks like they are clearing up. I don’t want to make the same mistake twice so I ask if there is any live music. Yes it will start at 10.30. Perfect so I order a beer and sure enogh a young band starts to set up. Latin American reggae with great saxophonist. This was followed by a heavier less subtle reggae band, but also good. The club had filled considerably during the music although from what I could see most knew each other i.e. friends and family of the bands. Nevertheless it was a good last night.
I fell into bed and woke at 8am without having to get up for one of my high altitude pees. Everything back to normal.